Dining out has become something of a luxury this year. From lockdowns and curfews to in-house dining and alcohol bans and an unprecedented number of restaurants shuttering for good, Cambodia’s dining landscape has been hit hard by the pandemic. This caused CUTS to close its doors to guests for 15 months.
However, hopefully marking the start of a return to some form of normality, the country’s highest restaurant, which is spread across Vattanac Capital Tower’s 38th floor, is once again welcoming guests – and it’s further elevated its sumptuous steak and seafood offerings under the helm of Chef de Cuisine Danny Chaney.
Boasting two decades of culinary experience in high-end hotels and restaurants across the globe, the American chef is breathing new life into the menu that takes in hand-cut artisanal steaks, fresh seafood, award-winning wines and a fusion of unforgettable flavours.
Offering a deluxe dining experience that pushes away from pretentious and into the realms of contemporary-chic, CUTS’ décor follows suit. As soon as the elevator doors open, guests are greeted by the elegant yet modern style that is signature to Rosewood Phnom Penh.
Daring contemporary artworks that celebrate the local scene adorn the space. Warm tones and soft lighting that exude a sense of stylish warmth run throughout, punctuated by a splash of colour in the form of antique-esque rusty-red leather seating. Of course, all to the mesmerising backdrop of the capital’s skyline dancing below.
The restaurant is divided into four distinct areas that cater to every occasion. The central dining room is dotted with cosybooths and tables, while the grill room offers a more intimate dining experience centred around the chef’s table.
Three private suites – each complete with its own breath-taking cityscape vista and show kitchen – are perfect for celebrating special occasions. Alternatively, the Wine Vault is home to Cambodia’s largest wine collection, an impressivemore than 3,000 bottles.
Chef Danny and CUTS’ dedicated butcher Dario Coloma’s combined passion for sourcing prime meats, such as Australian black angus and richly-marbled American wagyu, are evident in the menu. CUTS’ Crudo Bar serves a delightful selection of fresh seafood, and pastry chef Dustin Baxter is on hand to cater to those with a sweet tooth.
Our meal started with the ‘Crisp Greens’, a light salad to start a four-course feast. Crunchy lettuce is complimented by sweet cherry tomatoes, shavings of apple and a vegetable mousse, drizzled in a sharp mustard dressing. (The dish is usually accompanied by enoki mushrooms but unfortunately, allergies kept them off my plate!)
Next was a feast for the eyes and stomach – an indulgent seafood platter perfect for sharing. It was piled high with plump tiger prawns, fleshy king crab legs, Pacific oysters, Boston lobster, a tangy red snapper ceviche, meaty crab claws and melt-in-the-mouth salmon sashimi.
The star of the show was a generous cut of grain-fed black angus rib eye steak. Cooked to perfection, the tender and juicy meat’s flavour was enhanced with a delicate seasoning of Kampot pepper and locally-sourced salt. On the side wasconfit potato, roasted shallots, perfectly crisp on the outside and fluffy inside chunky fries and roasted seasonal vegetables.A home-made spiced pineapple jam added a sweet and sour kick.
It’s well worth saving space for dessert and for me that was WAT chocolate decadence. The clue is in the name as this is decadent to the very definition. Playing with textures, the crunch of the Macadamia nut brownie is perfectly complimented by the rich, creamy chocolate ice cream and fluffy gianduja mousse – a sweet tooth’s heaven and ideal way to end a truly decadent dining experience.
CUTS is open Tuesday to Sunday from 6pm to 9pm. Until September 26, experience Rosewood’s STEAK-cation offer. For $195, enjoy a four-course dinner at CUTS and one-night in an executive room for two. For $225, enjoy an additional breakfast for two. Available Thursday to Sunday.